Perricone – The rediscovery of an ancient Sicilian grape

P e r r i c o n e T h e r e d i s c o v e r y o f a n a n c i e n t S i c i l i a n g r a p e

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The Perricone grape variety, also known by its synonym Pignatello, is one of the oldest and most characterful native grapes in Sicily.

Although its cultivation has declined over the years, it is now being rediscovered and appreciated by dedicated winemakers.

Its history, its ampelographic characteristics and its potential for high-quality wines make it a unique part of the Sicilian wine tradition.

Origin and distribution


Perricone has its roots in the western provinces of Sicily, in particular in Palermo, Trapani and Agrigento. Historically, it was widely used to produce red Marsala, one of the island’s most famous wines. Today, Perricone can also be found in DOC areas such as Contea di Sclafani, Delia Nivolelli and Sicilia, where it is used as a single-variety grape or in cuvées with other native varieties such as Nero d’Avola.

In recent decades, the area under cultivation has decreased dramatically: while in 2001 around 1,195 hectares were planted with Perricone, today there are only around 80 hectares. Reasons for this include the comparatively difficult cultivation and the variety’s susceptibility to diseases such as powdery mildew and downy mildew.

Ampelographic characteristics


The shoot tip of Perricone is flattened and covered in spider webs. The leaves are medium-sized, have three or five lobes and are only slightly indented. The cylindrical or cone-shaped grape is particularly characteristic, and is small to medium-sized and has dense berries. The berries themselves are round, blue-black and have a thick skin, which makes them particularly robust against external influences.

Wine production and style
Perricone is vinified both as a single variety and in cuvées. Single-varietal Perricone wines are characterized by a deep dark color, strong tannins and a complex aroma. Typical flavors include sour cherry, dark chocolate and occasionally spicy herbs.

In cuvées, Perricone is often combined with Nero d’Avola, with the two varieties complementing each other: Perricone brings structure and depth, while Nero d’Avola provides fruit and softness.

An important aspect in wine production is yield control. Perricone can be very productive, but this leads to inferior quality. This is why measures such as green harvesting, leaf work and strict selection of the grapes are necessary. The main challenge is maintaining a balance between phenolic ripeness and acidity, as the grape can produce flat, unvibrant wines if overripe.

Historical significance and genetic relationships
The exact origins of Perricone are unclear, but it is thought that the grape is genetically related to the Tuscan variety Sangiovese. This may explain the occasional confusion between the two varieties.

In the 18th century, Perricone played a key role in the development of Marsala wine, particularly as a component of the red variety. British traders such as John Woodhouse, who made Marsala internationally known, were early to recognize Perricone’s potential, particularly in oxidative, wood-aged wines.

Challenges and future
Despite its historical significance, Perricone was largely displaced by other varieties in the 20th century. Demand for dry, fruit-forward wines led many producers to switch to easier-to-grow varieties. In addition, subsidized mass production has long shifted the focus from quality to quantity.

Today, however, Perricone is experiencing a renaissance. More and more winemakers are recognizing the potential of this variety for the production of characterful, terroir-related wines. Thanks to modern techniques and a return to traditional winemaking values, Perricone could become more important again in the coming years.

Conclusion
Perricone is more than just a grape variety – it is a testament to Sicily’s rich winemaking tradition. Its wines reflect the island’s diverse terroirs and offer an intense, aromatic experience. With the right care and dedication, Perricone could play a key role in the future of Sicilian winemaking and establish itself internationally as a representative of authentic Mediterranean wines.

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