The wines of Marsala -Tradition, change and the creation of new top wines
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The wines of Marsala – tradition, change and the creation of new top wines
The wines of Marsala have a rich and varied history. Once world-famous for the liqueur wine of the same name, the region in western Sicily has redefined itself in recent decades. Today, Marsala is not only synonymous with historical quality, but also the starting point for innovative wines and modern interpretations, such as those produced by producers such as Donnafugata or Bodegas COS.
The origins of Marsala wine
Marsala as a wine region became known in the late 18th century through the English merchant John Woodhouse. He realized that the region’s wines could be stabilized with the addition of alcohol and thus preserved for export. This „fortified“ wine was particularly popular in England because it resembled the sherry that was popular at the time.
The success of Marsala wine meant that the region flourished for its production. The fortified wines made from Grillo, Catarratto and Inzolia grapes were exported in large quantities. In the 19th century, Marsala was one of Sicily’s most important exports and a symbol of Italian excellence.
The decline of Marsala wine
In the 20th century, the star of classic Marsala wine began to fall.
Two main factors played a role:
Mass production and loss of quality: Many producers focused on quantity rather than quality. This led to Marsala losing its status as a luxury product and being dismissed as a simple cooking wine.
Changed taste:
International tastes changed away from sweet, heavy fortified wines to drier and lighter wines.
The region fell into crisis and Marsala was often associated only with industrial production and little prestige.
The Renaissance of Wine in Marsala
Since the 1980s, the region has reinvented itself by preserving its traditional roots but at the same time taking innovative paths. This renaissance is largely shaped by a new generation of winemakers who produce both Marsala wine and other regional wines with a fresh perspective and a focus on quality.
Donnafugata:
Icon of Innovation
Donnafugata is one of the most famous wineries in Sicily. The company, founded by the Rallo family, combines modern technology with deep roots in the Sicilian winemaking tradition. In addition to classic Marsala, Donnafugata produces high-quality still wines such as „Mille e una Notte“ or „Ben Ryé“, a Passito di Pantelleria known for its intensity and elegance.
Bodegas COS:
Natural wines and a love of experimentation
Bodegas COS, a pioneer of the natural wine movement in Sicily, has impressed the wine world with its unconventional approaches. The winery, known for its amphora wines, uses traditional methods and biodynamic principles to produce wines of exceptional purity and authenticity. Although COS is not located in Marsala itself, its success inspires producers in the region.
Other pioneers – Marco De Bartoli and Co.
Another milestone in the revival of Marsala wine was the work of Marco De Bartoli. He championed the rediscovery of high-quality Marsala styles, such as the „Vecchio Samperi“, an unfortified Marsala that redefined the originality and elegance of this category.
Producers such as Tasca d’Almerita and Planeta are also contributing to the region’s international recognition by offering both traditional and modern wines.
New trends and top wines from Marsala
Dry and elegant: the rediscovery of the Grillo grape
The indigenous Grillo grape, once used primarily for Marsala, is experiencing a renaissance as the basis for excellent white wines. These wines are mineral, fresh and reflect the region’s terroir. Examples include Feudo Montoni’s „Grillo Timpa“ or Donnafugata’s „SurSur“.
Organic and sustainable: a new philosophy
More and more winemakers in Marsala are focusing on sustainable and organic viticulture. This approach respects the region’s unique ecosystem and produces wines full of character that are characterized by quality and environmental awareness.
International recognition
The region has managed to renew its reputation and gain international recognition. Marsala wines and still wines from the area are now appreciated in leading restaurants around the world.
Conclusion: Marsala – a region in transition
Marsala today represents a successful combination of tradition and modernity. While classic fortified wines still have their place, innovative producers are helping to redefine the region as a source of first-class wines. With wineries such as Donnafugata, Marco De Bartoli and the visionaries of Bodegas COS, Marsala has laid the foundation to not only look back on a glorious past
Most important winemakers from Sicily – only Top 20 but there are many, many more:
Donnafugata, Bodegas COS, Cusumano, Passopisciaro, Frank Cornelissen, Planeta, Tenuta delle Terre Nere, Arianna Occhipinti, Marco di Bartoli, Idda, Firriato, Tornatore, Girolamo Russo, Feudo Maccari, Aeris Wines, Benanti, Villa Paradiso, Cantina Chitarra, Pellegrino, Tenuta Regaleali
Sicily’s grape varieties and their characteristics
Sicily, the largest island in the Mediterranean, is a melting pot of different grape varieties that reflect the region’s exceptional terroir and diverse microclimates.
With over 110,000 hectares of vineyards and a winemaking tradition that dates back to ancient times, Sicily is home to both indigenous and international grape varieties.
These varieties thrive in a unique combination of volcanic soils, Mediterranean climate and cooling sea breezes.
Indigenous grape varieties
Sicily is particularly proud of its indigenous grape varieties, which preserve the region’s heritage and diversity. These varieties are deeply rooted in the island’s history and produce wines that unmistakably express their origins.
1. Nero d’Avola
Characteristics:
Sicily’s most famous red grape variety, also known as “Calabrese”, produces wines with a deep red color, intense aromas of dark fruits (cherries, plums) and spicy notes of tobacco and chocolate. The wines are powerful, often with soft tannins and a pleasant acid structure.
Typical wine styles: Both fruity, easily accessible wines and complex, ageable red wines.
Regions: Widely grown throughout the island, especially in the southeast around Noto and Pachino.
2. Nerello Mascalese
Characteristics:
This grape variety is the heart of the famous Etna wines. It is characterized by elegance, fine tannins and a distinctive acidity. The aromas range from red berries to spices and mineral notes that reflect the volcanic terroir.
Typical wine styles:
Light to medium-bodied red wines with exceptional finesse and aging potential.
Regions: Mainly in the high altitudes of Etna.
3. Nerello Cappuccio
Characteristics:
Often used in cuvées with Nerello Mascalese, it gives the wines color, body and fruity aromas of blackberries and wild berries.
Typical wine styles: Fruit-focused red wines, often lighter and less tannic than Nerello Mascalese.
Regions: Also native to Etna.
4. Frappato
Characteristics:
Frappato produces lighter, fresh red wines with aromas of strawberries, cherries and floral notes. The wines are mostly light red and have a lively acidity.
Typical wine styles: Often found as a single-varietal wine or in Cerasuolo di Vittoria (cuvée with Nero d’Avola).
Regions: Particularly in the southeast of Sicily around Vittoria.
5. Grillo
Characteristics:
Grillo is one of the leading white grape varieties on the island. It produces aromatic wines with notes of citrus, herbs and sometimes floral overtones. Its mineral freshness and good structure make it versatile.
Typical wine styles:
Both fresh, straightforward white wines and complex, barrel-aged wines.
Regions: Mainly in western Sicily, especially in the Marsala region.
6. Catarratto
Characteristics:
One of the most widely planted white grape varieties in Sicily, known for its floral and fruity aromas coupled with a distinctive freshness. Catarratto is available in two varieties (Comune and Lucido), with Lucido being more delicate.
Typical wine styles:
Fresh white wines and base wines for Marsala.
Regions: Widely distributed across the island, especially in the west.
7. Inzolia (Ansonica)
Characteristics:
This variety produces wines with aromas of almond, apple and light herbal notes. It has moderate acidity and a creamy mouthfeel.
Typical wine styles: Often used as a single-varietal white wine or in blends.
Regions: Particularly in the Marsala region and on the south coast.
8. Carricante
Characteristics:
A white grape variety from Etna, known for its lively acidity and aromas of green apples, citrus and herbs. Wines made from Carricante often have a mineral and salty character.
Typical wine styles: Fresh white wines with excellent aging potential.
Regions: Mainly on Etna.
9. Zibibbo (Muscat of Alexandria)
Characteristics:
Known for intense aromas of dried fruit, honey and exotic spices. Zibibbo is often used for dessert wines.
Typical wine styles:
Sweet wines such as Passito di Pantelleria or dry, aromatic wines.
Regions: Particularly on the island of Pantelleria.
International grape varieties
In addition to the indigenous varieties, international grape varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Chardonnay have also become established. These vines were introduced in recent decades and adapt well to the warm climate and mineral soils.
Syrah
Characteristics:
Intensely fruity wines with aromas of black currants, pepper and herbs. In Sicily, Syrah often shows a Mediterranean warmth.
Regions: Islandwide, especially in central Sicily.
Chardonnay
Characteristics:
Produces fresh, elegant white wines with aromas of citrus fruits, tropical fruits and occasional butter or vanilla notes (when aged in barrels).
Regions: Particularly successful in western Sicily
Sicilian terroir and its effect
Sicily offers an impressive variety of terroirs that shape the characteristics of the grape varieties:
Volcanic soils (Etna): Shape wines with pronounced minerality and complexity, especially in Nerello Mascalese and Carricante.
Sandy soils (Pantelleria): Ideal for the Zibibbo grape and the production of aromatic sweet wines.
Limestone and clay soils (Marsala): Perfect for Grillo, Nero d’Avola and Catarratto.
Sicily’s winemaking thrives on the diversity of its grape varieties and the unique combination of climate and soil.
The indigenous varieties such as Nero d’Avola, Nerello Mascalese, Grillo and Catarratto represent the island’s identity, while international varieties expand the range. This combination makes Sicily one of the most exciting wine regions in the world, whose wines exude authenticity and character.
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